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OCRVEmpire

Personal and Recreational Owners

Sprinter and Camper Van Owners

The short answer

A high-roof van is a daily driver and a house at the same time, and most shops only handle one of those. We do the body work, the ADAS recalibration that has to follow it, and the roof penetrations and 12 volt system on the house side, all in one building in Yorba Linda.

01

What we see from this customer

Every Sprinter, Transit and ProMaster built in the last several years carries a forward camera, radar behind the fascia, and blind spot sensors aimed to fractions of a degree. Replace a windshield, straighten a rail, or change a bumper cover, and that aim is no longer valid. The system usually will not set a fault. It will just be wrong, which is the worse failure mode, and you find out in traffic on the 91 rather than on a scan tool in the bay.

The other half of the problem is that a dealership body shop will fix your sliding door and then tell you they do not touch the house side. So the fan the builder cut into your roof, the four solar panels bonded and screwed through the sheet metal, and the wiring running through those penetrations become somebody else's problem. Those penetrations are exactly where van leaks start, especially when a rack was mounted with self-tappers into a roof rib that was never designed to carry it.

Height strikes are the other thing we see constantly. A 9 foot 6 inch van meets a parking structure clearance bar in Long Beach or a drive-through canopy in Anaheim, and the damage looks like a scuffed fan cover. Underneath, the roof skin has oil-canned, a rack foot has torn its mount, and the seal around the vent is broken in a way you cannot see from the ground. We check the roof structure, reseal every penetration, and water test before the van goes out.

Location: All work is performed at our Yorba Linda facility. We do not offer mobile, roadside, or fleet route service.

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What you are worried about, and the answer

Concern 01

The dealership body shop will fix the van but says they do not touch the camper build.

We do both. Body panel and structural work on the chassis, plus roof penetrations, build-out, cabinetry, solar and 12 volt on the house side. Nothing gets split between two shops and nothing falls into the gap between them.

Concern 02

I hit a parking structure clearance bar and cracked the fan cover. I do not know what else it did.

A clearance bar strike almost never stops at the fan cover. We check the roof skin for oil-canning, the rack feet for torn mounts, and the rib the rack was fastened to, then reseal every penetration and water test the roof before delivery.

Concern 03

My lane keeping and adaptive cruise have to work correctly after the front bumper is replaced.

Any equipped van gets a pre-repair scan on the way in and a post-repair scan on the way out, with static and dynamic calibration to the platform specification. That runs $275 to $1,800, or 1 to 7 hours at $285 per hour, and you get the calibration report for your carrier file.

Concern 04

My builder cut a fan and solar into the roof and now there is a stain on the headliner.

A stain at the headliner is the low point, not the entry. Water travels laterally along the roof ribs before it drops. We meter, trace it back to the actual penetration, and correct that seal, because rebedding the wrong fan means doing it again in one rainy season.

Concern 05

This van is my daily driver. I cannot leave it in a shop for two months.

Tell us at intake that it is your daily driver, and we schedule parts ahead of teardown. Most of the delay on van work is waiting for a fascia or a sensor bracket, so we do not pull the van apart until the box is physically on the shelf.

Concern 06

The house battery and inverter stopped charging after the body work was done.

That is almost always a connection fault rather than a dead component. Twelve volt problems concentrate at corroded grounds, loose crimps, undersized wire, a failed converter, or a battery disconnect solenoid. Diagnostics run $285 per hour with a one hour minimum, refundable as a credit against an authorized repair.

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Services you need most

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Vehicles you run

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Questions

Frequently asked questions

Do I really need ADAS recalibration after body work on my van?

If the van has lane keeping, adaptive cruise, blind spot monitoring or automatic emergency braking, and the repair touched a sensor mount, the windshield, the fascia or ride height, yes. The system frequently will not warn you that it is out of aim. It simply reads the road wrong. Carriers increasingly require the pre-repair and post-repair scan documentation before they pay the line item.

Will you work on a self-converted or builder-converted van?

Yes, and self-converted vans are a large share of what comes through. We document aftermarket solar, racks, fans, insulation and cabinetry during disassembly specifically so those items land in the supplement. A carrier will not pay for a solar array it never saw photographed. That documentation is the difference between a paid claim and a long argument. Bring build photos and receipts if you kept them.

My roof leaks around the fan the builder installed. Can you fix it?

Yes. The real work is finding where water actually enters, which is rarely where it shows inside. We meter the ceiling and walls, trace the path back along the roof ribs, remove the penetration, correct the substrate if it is compromised, rebed with the correct sealant for that substrate, then water test the whole roof before the van leaves. Sheet metal that has gone soft with corrosion will not hold a new seal.

How much does van body and paint work run?

Body and paint labor is $210 per hour, with paint supplies at $55 per paint hour and body supplies at $5 per body hour. Mechanical and electrical work on the house side is $260 per hour. Diagnostics run $285 per hour with a one hour minimum. Parts carry 100 percent markup under $100 and 35 percent over $100. Sales tax is 7.75 percent.

Do you install solar and 12 volt systems, or only repair them?

Both. Solar panel installation, house battery replacement, shore power and 12 volt diagnostics are all in scope. On a van that is already built, we want to see the existing wiring before adding to it, because most systems we open have undersized wire somewhere or a ground that was never properly bonded to the chassis. Adding panels to that just relocates the failure.

Tell us what you run and what happened to it.