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Electrical and Systems

Auxiliary Battery Banks and DC-DC Charging for Vans and Fleet Vehicles

Typical range

$750 to $7,500

Shop hours

4 to 30

Labor rate

$260/hr

The short answer

Auxiliary battery and DC-DC charging work builds a second bank that charges from the engine alternator without damaging it, using a current limited DC-DC charger instead of a simple isolator. Work runs $750 to $7,500, or 4 to 30 hours at $260 per hour plus equipment.

01

What this work actually involves

A traditional battery isolator connects the house bank to the alternator through a relay and hopes for the best. That was acceptable when house banks were two lead acid batteries that tapered charge current on their own. It is not acceptable with lithium, which will accept everything the alternator can produce and hold it there. Modern Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster alternators are also temperature regulated by the engine computer and are not designed for sustained full output, so a lithium bank on a plain isolator will cook an alternator that costs more than the batteries did.

A DC-DC charger solves both problems. It limits the current drawn from the alternator to a set value, and it delivers a proper multi-stage charge profile to the house chemistry regardless of what the alternator bus is doing. On smart alternator vehicles that drop to 12.4 volts under regenerative strategies, a DC-DC unit boosts the input up to a real charge voltage, which a simple isolator cannot do. This is the single most common thing missing from van conversions that come to us with a house bank that never fills on a driving day.

The install detail that matters is cable and fusing. The run from the engine bay to the house bank in a Sprinter or a Class C is long, and the voltage drop over that run determines how much charge you actually get. We size for the drop, fuse at both ends near the source, protect the cable at every body pass-through, and add a battery monitor with a shunt so you can see what the system is really doing instead of guessing from a voltage display.

Systems and brands we work on: Victron, Battle Born, LiFePO4, AGM, Xantrex, Magnum.

Location: All work is performed at our Yorba Linda facility. We do not offer mobile, roadside, or fleet route service.

02

What the job includes

  • Auxiliary house bank design, sizing, and mounting in vans and fleet vehicles
  • DC-DC charger selection, installation, and current limit programming
  • Smart alternator and variable voltage vehicle compatibility evaluation
  • Alternator output capacity assessment before adding charge load
  • Long run cable sizing to measured voltage drop with fusing at both ends
  • Body pass-through grommets, chafe protection, and secured routing
  • Battery monitor and shunt installation with correct capacity programming
  • Integration with solar charging so the sources coordinate rather than conflict
  • Bank isolation so the starting battery is never drawn down by house loads
  • Fleet upfit power for equipment, refrigeration, and medical or workshop loads

03

When you need this service

  • House bank barely gains charge after a full day of driving
  • Starting battery goes flat while the house bank still shows capacity
  • Alternator running hot, whining, or failing repeatedly after a lithium upgrade
  • A lithium bank connected through an old style isolator relay
  • Voltage at the house bank reads well below alternator output voltage
  • Equipment in a work vehicle shutting down before the shift ends

04

How we do it, step by step

  1. 01

    Vehicle charging system assessment

    Alternator rating, regulation strategy, and existing bus voltage measured while running. Smart alternator vehicles behave very differently and the plan depends on which you have.

  2. 02

    Load and capacity calculation

    Daily consumption totaled against driving hours so the bank and the charger are sized to actually replace what you use, not to a round number.

  3. 03

    Charger sizing against alternator headroom

    DC-DC current limit set below what the alternator can sustain with the vehicle at idle in traffic, which is the worst case that kills alternators.

  4. 04

    Cable run and protection

    Cable sized to the measured run length and drop, fused within inches of each source, and routed with grommets and loom through every body pass-through.

  5. 05

    Install and program

    Bank, charger, and shunt installed, charge profile matched to chemistry, and the ignition or voltage sense trigger configured for your driving pattern.

  6. 06

    Road verification

    Charge current, bus voltage, and alternator temperature verified with the engine running under load so we know the system behaves correctly in service.

05

Pricing and posted rates

Pricing for Auxiliary Battery and DC-DC Charging Systems
ItemRate or rangeNotes
Typical job range$750 to $7,500Varies with extent of damage and parts availability
Shop hours4 to 30Quoted after teardown, not before
Mechanical and electrical labor$260 per hour2026 posted rate
Parts100% markup under $100, 35% overSpecial order parts require a non refundable deposit at order
Deposit50% at authorization over $2,000Additional 25% when parts arrive on jobs over $10,000
Sales tax7.75% on parts and materialsLabor is not taxed

Insurance billed jobs may be billed at carrier negotiated labor rates that differ from the posted retail rates above. See all posted rates.

07

Vehicles we do this work on

08

Questions about auxiliary battery and dc-dc charging systems

Frequently asked questions

Why do I need a DC-DC charger instead of a battery isolator?

An isolator just connects the banks together. A lithium bank will pull everything the alternator can make and hold it there, which overheats an alternator that was never rated for sustained full output. A DC-DC charger limits that current and delivers a correct charge profile. On smart alternator vehicles it also boosts a low bus voltage into a real charge voltage.

What does an auxiliary battery system cost?

Work runs $750 to $7,500, or 4 to 30 hours at $260 per hour plus equipment. A single group 31 AGM auxiliary battery with a 20 amp DC-DC charger in a cargo van is at the low end. A 400 amp hour LiFePO4 bank with a 60 amp charger, long cable runs, monitoring, and solar integration in a Sprinter is at the high end.

Will this hurt my alternator?

Not when it is sized correctly, which is the entire point. We measure the alternator rating and set the DC-DC current limit below what it can sustain at idle with the engine fan and air conditioning running, since that is the worst case. The failures we see are from unlimited isolator connections, not from properly limited DC-DC installs.

Can you add house power to a work van or fleet vehicle?

Yes. Auxiliary power for refrigeration, medical equipment, tools, lighting, and inverter loads is a regular part of our fleet upfit work. We size the bank to a full shift of actual load, protect the starting battery so the vehicle always starts, and label the system so a driver can troubleshoot the basics.

Does this work with solar at the same time?

Yes, and it should. Solar and DC-DC charging feed the same bank and need coordinated charge profiles so they are not fighting each other over absorption voltage and timing. We set both to the same chemistry targets and add a shunt monitor so you can see which source is contributing at any moment.

09

Related services

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More electrical and systems work

Ready to move on auxiliary battery and dc-dc charging systems? Bring it to Yorba Linda.